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So I met this guy on the internet…

No, that doesn’t quite work, even if it’s true.

The other day, a guy named John contacted me after reading the blog. He lives near Nimes and had been hankering to get out on his bike for the past couple months. After doing a Google background check on him and thinking he seemed harmless enough (true to a point, as we’ll see soon), we set up a day (Sunday) and I took the train up to Nimes, promptly making my first mistake of the day.

John recommended a route to get to his village, which took in a part of the voie verte between Nimes and Sommieres. Well, I’d ridden that stretch already and I saw a little road on Google Maps that looked promising, even cutting off a couple km in the process. John said it was more suited to mountain bikes, so I was forewarned. And of course it was. Promisingly paved for the first bit, the chemin (never trust a road with that word in its name in France) quickly turned into a rutty, rock-strewn obstacle course filled with little muddy ponds (we recently had a rare two-day stretch of rain) that made any gains I thought I was making mute.

Then, after a couple km of this I ran into this crowd.

Turns out there was a trail running race of some sort on my road and, after waiting for a few minutes, I figured out it was nowhere near ending. So, there I was, riding along these runners, dodging boulders and potholes, and even shaming myself in the process by falling behind!

But that ended quickly enough when they took a left turn and I kept on going straight. I found John in the center of his village, dropped off my pannier full of civilian clothes, and headed out of town on one of John’s regular rides. The wind was at our back for the first half, so no pictures at all, I’m afraid. This one was around the point we turned north again and thought it justified a shot. It is a sign for motorists, cautioning them that this road is a ’shared’ road, between cars and bicycles that is. I am not sure if I have ever seen anything exactly like this, but it seems like a good enough idea, although I’m not sure if the rules of these roads could be any different from regular ones. Anyway, it was Sunday and traffic was light, so it was essentially a non-issue for us.

This next one is yet another example of the poor quality of my camera. In the foreground are some marshes, inhabited by bulls by the way. In the distance is Pic St Loup on the left, and farther off, the snow-topped peaks of Les Cevennes.

We were in the Camargue, the huge delta of the Rhone river, which is home to a typical type of horse, also called Camargue. Well, these three aren’t those, but since they are white (like Camargue horses) they must be some kind of cross. Both John and agreed that they looked a bit like Clydesdales, but considering the size differential between the two types of horses, successful breeding seems unlikely…or at the very least a physical challenge!

The next photo is of the Chateau de Aubais, the last picture from our ride. Why? Shortly after this I had a ‘bonk’, which I’ll blame on insufficient number of croissants for breakfast, but more likely because of my inability to hold the wheel of John – quite disturbing considering he hadn’t ridden since November!

When we got back to John’s place I was treated to a lovely lunch, accompanied by his wife Marie-Laure, who was very kind to wait for us, seeing we were 2 hours late.

John and Marie-Laure (and Mia and Cloe) live in an old grange, which was once part of the adjacent farm. They showed me pictures of what it was they bought, and what it looked like to me was 3 walls and possibly a floor! This is what they’ve transformed that mess into, after 2 years of hard work.

Starting with the kitchen / living room…


…moving upstairs…

OK, that last one might have been downstairs…and finally out to their courtyard / pool.

Looks nice? Would like one for yourself? Well, you’re in luck. Marie-Laure happens to be an interior designer, and an excellent one at that. Here’s her website.

H. Interior Design


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Montbazin

This is the 3rd time I’ve been to this tiny village in search for a way into their church. Apparently there are some outstanding Cistercian frescoes in there, but I’ll just have to take their word for it – they are closed for the winter.

But it was a nice ride, nonetheless. Here is the view of Montbazin just outside the village. The artwork was whipped up by my aspiring-artist wife on the computer. I liked it so much I’ve started a page (look up…there’s a new tab) for other works I’m going to bug her to make!

Here’s the heavily-fortified chapel in real life. Looks closed, doesn’t it?



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Despite the 6 measly degrees today I went out for a ride in the afternoon. It turned out to be a really nice run, probably due to the intensely clear skies (I had several clear views of the windswept baldness of Mt Ventoux, some 150 km away) and the near-total lack of wind – a rarity these days. I did a loop to the east of the city, rolling on well-known roads for some of the way, and taking my chances with new ones for the rest. That’s how I happened upon Domaine de Grammont.

The facade above is only from the 18th century, but the site dates back to the 11th, when a group of monks decided that it was a nice place for a priory. Today the 90 hectares include parkland, tennis courts, wedding halls, an equestrian club and a journalism school. It’s really just on the edge of Montpellier, so very close to home. As soon as the ice thaws I think I’ll be going back for a closer look.



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I sort of stumbled upon this place – la Maison de la Nature - today on a familiar route that takes me to the sea and back. I knew about this nature reserve of course, but never really stopped to see what it was about till today. Turns out it was a decent idea. Here’s why.

I think there are two paths that wind their ways through the wetlands, and at least one of them has a separate track for bikes. I’ll have to come back and see about the other one next time. In fact, this was near the end of my ride and the end of the day, so I only rode for a couple km (till I got stuck in the mud…). Very nice though, at least during the week. Nearly deserted, except for the thousands of birds that migrate past here.

And yes, I’m off my arse, as you can see. Strangely, my strict regimen of immobility made my knee and hamstring worse…so it’s back in the saddle for me!



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More ‘filler’ while I’m keeping myself away from my bike…

You’ve got the big tours, like the Tour de France. You’ve got the shorter stage races, such as Paris-Nice. And, then you’ve got the Classics, one-day races that are nearly always run in the spring, before the big tours start.

The biggest Classic is the 260 km Paris – Roubaix, the “Hell of the North”, appropriately named due to its many stretches of rough, ancient, cobbled roads (the Tour de France will run over some this July), and presumably the nasty weather that you can get in April. Incredibly, this race has been run every year (excepting those two pesky World Wars…) since 1896!

(Photo by F. Lamiot)

If you want to get a good sense of the toughness of this route, not to mention the riders, check out A Sunday in Hell, a 1977 documentary that follows the race from first massage to last shower. Merckx, Poulidor, Maertens and other legends of European cycling are in there. A more modern attempt is “Road to Roubaix”, also worth a look, if for no other reason, to see how little Hell has changed in 30 years!

The 2010  Paris – Nice (Mar 7 – 14) route just out. Here it is.

Grand Tours

I made mention of these Big Three in a recent post and thought maybe I should pump them a little more, in case any of you out there aren’t aware of these giant European sporting events (I don’t blame you…I didn’t know that handball was a sport anyone did outside of gym class before moving here…).

First up, since it is the first of the year – The Giro d’Italia. The Giro is a 3-week race (like the others) that began 101 years ago in 1909. It runs in May and is often looked upon as an excellent warm-up for the Tour de France for  the big-name riders. Here’s this year’s route, surprisingly starting in Amsterdam.

Next up is the big one. No disrespect to the other two, or any other race in the world, but there is really no competition when it comes to prestige. The Tour de France was the first (beginning in 1903) and by far the most popular and well known (it is the largest spectator sport in the world). If a rider wins only one stage of ‘le Tour’ it could make his career…or at least do wonders for his contract the next time he negotiates it!

The Tour is run for 3 weeks in July, always ending in a mass sprint up the Champs Elysee in Paris.  Here is the map for this year. Again, Holland hosts the beginning.

Last up is the Vuelta a Espana, held every year in September. The Spanish, like at least the French (and I assume the Italians), are nuts about cycling, and most of the great riders will win the Vuelta once or twice at least. The best rider in the world at the moment, Alberto Contador, is no exception, having won it in 2008. This is the route this year.

Now that I think about it, it would be a shame to live where I live and not make it to the other two big races (I am already a minor Tour de France stalker). We are 300 km from Italy and only about 200 km to Spain so really no excuse not to. I’ll keep you posted.

My hiatus continues and so does the rain, so not too antsy just yet.

Nearly two years ago exactly, while living in Singapore, Shoko and I had the great good fortune of having two world cyclists stay at our pad for a few days.

Ali and Sonya had already been on the road, non stop, since August 2006, and had made their slow-but-sure way from the Netherlands to our place on the equator.

But get this, two years later they are still cranking their gears – currently in South America! The reason I bring them to your attention is because, if you are a cyclo-tourist (aspiring or otherwise), they have one of the best sites out there. For sheer content it is pretty awesome. Probably thousands of pages of detailed info, photos, maps, videos, country information, handy tips, and the list probably goes on an on.

So, if you’ve got a rainy Sunday ahead of you like me, click on the banner above and enjoy the ride!

Alright, don’t say I didn’t warn you. While the rain pours down, and my hamstring slowly heals, this is the sort of entry you are going to get.

I’ve been tooling around with Google Earth recently, trying to find a simple way to get it (more specifically, ‘tours’) somehow into the blog. I’ve so far been unsuccessful, partly because I’m not nerdy enough to understand the language most web builders, etc. speak, and partly because WordPress doesn’t appear to allow it. Anyway, for now I thought I’d start with what I can.

Below is the example map I’m using for my new little map-making enterprise. If you want to see a basic tour of this (and you already have Google Earth installed), follows these steps.

1. Open the map in a new window by clicking on the link under it.

2. Click on ‘View in Google Earth’ – between RSS and Print.

3. You’ll see ‘Nimes to Montpellier – 3 days’ on the left side, under ‘Places’. Click on it.

4. Click on the video camera under this, sit back, and enjoy!


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What I’d really like is to be able to make a tour that ‘flies’ over the route I make, which is extremely cool. Check out the Tour de France video for an example.  It’s possible to do this, but I haven’t found a way to link it to Google Maps yet. It also looks painfully time consuming, and my hamstring is starting to feel better already…

Taking advantage of the freezing weather in the south of France, I’ve imposed a short hibernation on myself. The reality is I could certainly put on my woolly tights and get out of town, but I’ve had a nagging hamstring injury for months now that I’ve decided to cater to.

So, for the time being you’ll be getting cycling posts of the armchair variety.

Most of you in the northern hemisphere will find this hard to believe, but this coming weekend actually begins the UCI Pro cycling season. Yes, it’s ‘down under’ like the title suggests – more precisely in and around my old haunt of Adelaide, South Australia.

A race this early can hardly be called a warm-up even, and I think most cyclists who are looking towards the Grand Tours later in the year, look at these very early races as simply ways to get some racing miles in, and possible shed a few kgs.

The exceptions are the Aussies, who, unlike the French, actually win their national bike race. Australian riders take great pride in this race, and understandably want to end up on the podium…as 6 of them have in the last 11 races.

Click on the banner above for the official site, where you (curiously) won’t find a map of the entire route, but will find individual maps of each stage. If anyone finds a proper route map, let me know and I’ll add it here.

And use the link below to find live coverage, as well as lots of pre and post-race videos.

And just because I find it painful to write a post without a Google Map, here’s Adelaide!

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